Reflections of our Trip

I’m not sure, in retrospect, that Ireland and Scotland were all that high up on our respective bucket lists. They are two places that I have always wanted to see….someday.  And I think Irv felt somewhat  the same.  But I thoroughly enjoyed both parts of this trip, for similar and for varied reasons.  For one, the people in both countries were so very friendly and welcoming. I can’t say that we ran into anyone who didn’t make us feel like they were glad we were visiting their country. The scenery in both places is spectacular, but in a different way than other countries we have visited.  There is more an air of ruggedness about the landscape, which is reflected in the history.  They are both countries who have seen their share of conflict and subjugation by others, which I think has made them stronger and more resilient. While Ireland’s “Troubles” are more recent, and there is still evidence today of the strong feelings that existed during those challenging times, Scotland’s conflicts are more rooted in the past.

I could not say that I preferred one over the other.  I loved the lilt of both the Irish and Scottish accents, and could have listened to people talking for hours.  Ireland is a very lush, green country, while Scotland, particularly in the Highlands, is more rugged and wild.  We enjoyed the large cities: Belfast, Dublin, Edinburgh and Glasgow, but were perhaps even more enamoured of the smaller towns that we visited.  I think the thing that struck us most was the whole time we were there, we were steeped in history.  Perhaps because we were on tours, and had guides who are paid to impart this knowledge, we were more immersed in the historical aspects, but I don’t think you can properly visit either of these countries without gaining some understanding of their often tumultuous past, as well as their relationship with England. It was this aspect of our trip that I think I enjoyed the most.  At times, it was “information overload” as we tried to take in as much as we could of what our guides were telling us, but over the course of the tours, things started to fall into place and I think we gained a better sense of how the events of the past evolved and have impacted the present. 

We were most pleased with our G Adventures tour of Ireland.  Our guide, Mike, while relatively young, did a wonderful job of making the journey enjoyable, entertaining and informative.  Our tour mates were a lovely group, and everyone got along very well with everyone else.  And our driver Paul was exceptional at getting us where we needed to be in a timely manner. I felt that, while it was a bit of a whirlwind tour – Ireland in 13 days – we got a good sense of what the country was like and experienced most of the highlights.

In planning our Scotland part of the tour, I had doubts about whether we had made a wise decision to stick to the two main cities, Edinburgh and Glasgow, and just do day trips from those home bases.  But as it turned out this was a great way to see a fair bit of the country.  It was lovely, after having to pack up every two days on our Ireland adventure, to be able to stay put for a whole week in one place. The day trips we took out of the two cities, with Rabbies, were exceptional.  Our guides were amazing – entertaining, friendly, and so informative! Our three trips out of Edinburgh allowed us to experience a good variety of the scenery and highlights in several directions. And even our trips out of Glasgow had us going fairly far afield, all the way up to the Highlands. I thoroughly enjoyed both Edinburgh and Glasgow, but for vastly different reasons.  I felt absolutely steeped in history in Edinburgh and it seemed there was something interesting around every corner. I was totally gobsmacked at the architecture and the evidence of so much of the past. Glasgow is a much more urban centre, with vestiges of the past, but not as much in-your-face as in Edinburgh. And yet it had a certain unmistakeable vibe to it, I think mostly due in part to a different attitude of the people in Glasgow.  It is hard to put a finger on what that difference was, it just felt more up-and-coming and forward-looking.  I could not say which of the two I preferred, because they both had elements that thoroughly enthralled me, and I would go back to visit either of them in a heartbeat. 

So all in all, would I recommend Ireland and Scotland as places one should put on their bucket list?  Most definitely. 

Day Twenty-nine - On our Way Home

October 9, 2019

After weighing the pros and cons of either taking the Airlink bus to the airport or just getting an Uber, we opted for the latter. Since we had to be out there fairly early, and the fact that the weather was not looking great, we decided it would be a lot less hassle than schlepping our suitcases over to the bus stop, and as it turned out, indeed it was quite smooth. And not too dear, either!

No drama, no trauma checking in, our flight to Halifax was on time, and we were on our way. Even our layover in Halifax was not too onerous, as we were able to grab a bite to eat and relax a bit before boarding our flight to YEG.  Another uneventful flight and we were landing in Edmonton in no time! 

Day Twenty-eight: Whisky and Wandering

Since Irv had had to miss his special tasting out at the Glengoyne Distillery the other day, we decided we would take another stab at it. We had already sussed out how to get out there by bus, so trekked up to Buchanan bus station and hopped on the B10 out to Balfron. It was an interesting trip through part of Glasgow we hadn't seen, and on out into the countryside. At one point I wasn't sure we would make it, because it had rained quite heavily in parts of the city the night before and some of the roads were flooded with at least a foot of water. Not sure how the bus got through without stalling! We passed through some smaller towns and villages - a very beautiful drive of about an hour.

 We arrived at Glengoyne just in time for our 12:00 tour, which started out with a "wee dram" of their 10 year old product. Our lovely guide Niamh (pronounced "Neeve") took us through the stages of whisky-making, from the soaking of the barley, or malting, so that the barley sprouts, which changes the starch into sugar. Next comes the drying of the barley using hot air, followed by the grinding of the grain. The next step is to add water to the ground barley to dissolve the sugars, which is done in a huge vat called a "mash tun". They repeat this three times, then add the yeast to turn the sugar into alcohol. This is followed by the distillation, which is done in huge copper pot stills. The "wort", as it is called at this point, is heated up in a large pot still so that it evaporates the alcohol, which goes into essentially a condensation tube, where it is then piped over to two smaller stills and gets distilled a second time. After the first distillation the alcohol content is 25%, but after the second one it is 75%. It then goes through the whisky "safe" where they check the alcohol content. After that, it is piped (under the road) from the distillery over to the storage facility where it is put into casks. The casks they use are used sherry casks from Spain and some used bourbon casks from the US. It is this aging in these used barrels that gives the whisky its colour and flavour. They have a display of forty bottles, from the first bottle which is the clear liquid that comes from the distillation process, right through to the last caramel coloured bottle, the 40 year old single malt. Each bottle has less and less whisky, due to evaporation in the cask. The evaporated part is called the "angels' share"!! A note of interest - I have been spelling 'whisky' with no 'e' as is proper in Scotland, as opposed to Ireland where it is spelled "whiskEy"!! at the end of the tour, they gave you a wee dram of the 18 year old, which Irv says is pretty heavenly. They give you a choice of having the dram or taking your share in a little bottle, in case you are the DD. Well, I wasn’t driving, but since I am not partial to whisky (heresy, I know, in these parts), I opted for the little bottle, so that Irv could have an extra wee dram!!

 Back on the B10 to return to Glasgow, with a stop for a little treat at a coffee shop in Buchanan Galleries, then a stroll around town to see a little more. Came across a couple more murals - Rogue One's playful kittens on Sauchiehall Street, and the Musician, which he did with Art Pistol. Went back to show Irv the ones in the viaduct under the train station that I had seen on my tour. Fortunately today there was no lorry parked in front, so I got a better shot of them. Then we just wandered admiring all the old buildings here. The only thing is that you have to remember to look UP because the street level are all modern shops with glitzy store fronts. But the upper levels are absolutely stunning and every one is different! I love the juxtaposition of the old with the new here!

 On our wandering, we found a good pub to come back to for dinner, so we headed back tomthe flat to get our stuff organized for our departure early tomorrow. Once we'd done that, we headed back out to the Drum and Monkey and enjoyed our last meal in Scotland. I tried a national dish called Stovies,,which is basically a stew dish, served with oatcakes, which were not my fav.

 Back to the flat for our last sleep in the UK!🙁🙁

Day Twenty-seven: Modern Art, Museums and a Craft Market

Since I was up at the crack o' and Irv was having a bit of a lie in, I decided to head over to the Gallery of Modern Art for a look-see. It is only ten minutes from the flat, and it's free, so why not?! It is housed in a beautiful neoclassical building with huge Corinthian stone pillars out front. Originally built in 1778 as a home for a wealthy tobacco lord, it has had many reincarnations before becoming the site of the city's repository for modern art in 1996. The collections on exhibit are as eclectic as one comes to expect in a modern art gallery. I always feel that, when viewing modern art, one must lay aside preconceived notions and try to appreciate what the artist is trying to convey with their pieces or installations.

 Back to the flat to reconnect with Irv and head over to Merchant Square for the indoor craft and design fair. It is essentially a good-sized craft market held in the same venue where we had eaten a couple of times - a large open space where the stalls are set up, ringed with a variety of different restaurants. Their slogan is "Merchant Square - where it never rains" and a perfect venue for a craft market!! We had a great time speaking to the vendors - Glaswegians really are such a friendly folk and love to talk! We even came across a man selling tablets who, when he heard we were from Alberta, told us what a big fan he was of the Hart family of wrestlers! BTW a tablet here is a delectable confection much like fudge but waaaaay better! We had already tried some on one of our tours and had to pick up some more. He even threw in an extra one for us!

 We next ventured over to the Lighthouse, where I was meeting up for my Street Art tour. The Lighthouse is a heritage building designed in 1895 by Glasgow's favourite architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and the first building he designed. It was the home of the Glasgow Herald newspaper, until they vacated the premises, and it sat unused until 1999 when it was transformed into the Scotland Centre for Architecture and Design. It houses several exhibition galleries, including one that traces the history of Mr. Mackintosh and his connection with so many of the city's iconic buildings. There was also a gallery with an exhibit called "Furniture Music" which explored the sounds of mundane everyday objects viewed in a different light. One of the draws of the Lighthouse is the tower with the spiral staircase (200+ steps) that leads up to a platform which affords great views of the city. The tower originally held an 8000 gallon water tank, necessary due to the flammability of the printing presses.

 While I went off for my Street Art tour, Irv wandered about for a little exploration of his own. There were only three of us on the tour, which made it quite good, as our guide, Caron, was able to show us a few more places than she might have had the group been larger. We basically toured the central area and explored the sites of the different wall murals. The murals are part of a project to rejuvenate the city centre with art to create a greater sense of pride in the core. All of the murals are sanctioned by the City Council, and paid for by them. Artists submit their proposals and designs and then are provided with funds for materials and labour to complete their works. The first design was created in 2008, and the project has grown since then. There are several prominent artists whose work appears predominantly: Smug, RogueOne, Art Pilot, Ejek and Klingatron. They are exceptionally talented, creating these huge works of art on the sides of derelict buildings, and doing so in only a matter of a week or so. Smug created the stunning Fellow Residents of Glasgow in only two weeks. The push to add more murals continues, with a current project being the painting of a series of twelve portraits along the two sides of a dingy viaduct running under Glasgow Central Station. There are only three to date, but RogueOne is on line to produce nine more. They are all portraits of musicians who have performed at a local music venue in the tunnel called "the Arches" which was closed down in the late 90’s. Another series of three murals celebrates the life of Billy Connolly, Glasgow's world famous comedian. A sad sight was that of the mural called the Tiger, which has unfortunately been defaced by graffiti.

 One very interesting place we also visited on the tour was not a mural but a theatre, the Britannia Panopticon.  This is touted as the world's oldest surviving music hall, dating back to 1857, and having been the venue for singers, dancers and comedians to entertain the common folk of the city. At one point in its life it housed a carnival freak show on the main floor and a zoo in the basement! It is in sad need of repairs to bring it back to its former glory, but a group of dedicated citizens are working to do just that. In the meantime it serves as a place where there are regular showings of RuPaul's Drag Race, as well as a number of drag shows, along with other more mainstream entertainment such as films, story-telling, old movies.

 Our Street Art tour ended half a block from our flat, at the Ingram Street car park, where Smug painted the stunning "Fellow Residents of Glasgow" mural, depicting some of the animals found in the area throughout the four seasons. It is quite amazing to see the detail he has incorporated, from the wisps of hair on the red squirrel to the reflections in the eyes of the badger. It really is one of those things that has to be seen to be appreciated!

 One thing that Caron pointed out was a plaque on the former church across from our flat, which commemorates the fact that it was in this area of Ramshorn that our own John A Macdonald was born! Who knew!!

Met back up with Irv under the traffic cone-bearing Duke in front of GOMA and we headed off to suss out the airport bus situation. There is an airport link bus and a stop only ten minutes from the flat, but they are doing some construction in the area and there is a sign that says that stop is closed. More research necessary.

 Not having had any lunch we were feeling a little peckish, so opted to suss out some dinner. The restaurants in Merchant Square were chock-a-block, so we headed over to Blackfriar's pub for a pre-dinner drink and then decided to just eat there. Great steak and ale pie finished off with the requisite sticky toffee pudding for dessert!

Day Twenty-six: A Very Loooong Day Up in the Highlands

A very early start for us today, as we had to be at the pickup spot for our Rabbies tour at 7:45. Good thing it is only a ten minute walk from our flat! Our tour guide/driver (it amazes me how these guys can do this) is Alan. He is, as all Rabbies guides seem to be, a most personable and entertaining fellow, with a wealth of information to share on all things Scottish.

 This tour was a bit different in that we spent more time on the bus looking at the scenery than stopping at actual sites and touring through them. The main purpose of the tour is to get you out of the Lowlands and into the Highlands to experience that beautiful part of this country, and to learn more about what life was like for the people who lived and live here. As you pass through from the low rolling hills, the scenery becomes more rugged and in some places, quite desolate and uninhabited. Part of the journey is through land that is essentially a huge peat bog, so unfit for human habitation or even for grazing.

 Our first stop was at Loch Lomond, which we had visited on a previous tour, but from the other side. We followed the loch all the way down to the end. It was a very windy day, so we were surprised to see so many boats on the water! Second stop was at Glencoe, a deep-sided valley in the Highlands, popular with hikers. It is also the site of the Glencoe Massacre, where some 30 members of Clan MacDonald were killed by English forces who had been billetting with the clan, on the grounds that they had not been prompt enough in pledging their allegiance to William III of England and II of Scotland, and Mary II, after the Jacobite uprising. Many more died of exposure and starvation, as the forces attacked in the early hours of the morning, forcing people from their homes in their nightclothes and then burning them to the ground. For a place with such a tragic story in its past, Glencoe is a stunningly beautiful site.

 Onward we travelled to Fort Augustus, our lunch stop and a chance to look at the Caledonian Canal, a waterway constructed in the early eighteenth century to connect the east coast at Inverness to the west coast near Fort William. It has 29 locks along its 97 km route.

 Next stop was at Loch Ness, to see if we could spot the elusive Nessie, as the Loch Ness Monster is more affectionately known in these parts. We had a 50 minute boat tour down the lake, pausing down the lake to take in the ruins of Urquhart Castle, which they think may have existed in some form since 580 AD when St. Columba visited there. It was seized by Edward I when he invaded in 1296 and changed hands several times over its existence, including having been under the control of Robert the Bruce. It played a role in the Jacobite uprising, but was blown up in 1692 when the English forces left. There is nothing but the ruins left. And no, we did not see Nessie!!

 Our final stop of the day was to pay a visit to some delightful Highland cattle at a highway stopping place called A Taste of Perthshire. Would like to have had more time to browse through their extensive shops, but I was more interested in seeing the cattle - two cows and one calf who were more than happy to make our acquaintance, especially because we came bearing food!! They are quite enchanting creatures, with their beautiful long hair and their doleful eyes!

 Back on the bus for a long last stretch to Glasgow, confounded by a traffic jam on the motorway. But we arrived in Glasgow safe and sound, twelve hours after we had left! A long, but good day of taking in more of the sights of Scotland.

 After such a long day, we were not wanting to be too adventurous or far afield in our dining choice, so opted to go back to Merchant's Square and try a different place. It was really hopping, with every restaurant in the place almost full. We settled for a burger and onion rings at  one of the establishments! Not gourmet, but filled the gap and tasted great!

Day Twenty-five - Walking Tour of Central Glasgow

Today we figured we'd best find out why Glaswegians think that their city is ever so much better than Edinburgh. (Glaswegians say Edinburgh with as much distaste as the people of Dog River do their arch-enemy Wullerton, except they don't spit on the ground. You have to be a Corner Gas fan to get this reference!!) So we signed ourselves up for a two and a half hour tour of the central part of the city.

 We met our guide, Rachel, in the centre of George Square, under the previously mentioned statue of Sir Walter Scott, and headed out from there. Along the tour, we stopped beside several of the murals that I am hoping to see on the Street Art tour I've signed up for on Saturday, and Rachel explained that the existence of the murals coincided with the movement to make Glasgow a more tourist-friendly city.  These are not just random graffiti artists tagging walls hither and yon. All of the murals are sanctioned by the City and the project has helped to rejuvenate streets and revitalize buildings and vacant spots. The first appeared in 2008 and the collection has been growing since then.

 We first stopped at the beautiful church-like building that turns out to be part of the University of Strathclyde, and serves as their convocation hall. We also walked by the Provands Lordship, the oldest house in Glasgow built in 1471. We figured that might warrant a second look this afternoon. Next stop was the absolutely outstanding Glasgow Cathedral, aka High Kirk of Glasgow, St. Kentigern's or St. Mungo's (patron saint of Glasgow). It is the oldest cathedral on mainland Scotland and the oldest building in Glasgow. Next to it is the Necropolis, a 37 acre cemetery up on the hill behind the Cathedral. We had about 15 minutes to wander and explore, but I only had time to duck into the Cathedral. Again, another place to possibly come back to, since it isn't far from our flat.

 Onward to St. Andrews on the Square, an 18th century former church, now repurposed as the Centre for Scottish Culture. It was used as a location for filming one of the Outlander episodes. From there we moved on to Glasgow Green, the oldest park in the city on the north bank of the River Clyde. It is the site of the Nelson Monument and plays host to a number of events over the course of the year, most recently an international pipe band competition, which apparently has been won by Canadian bands several times!! Also in the park is a fountain dedicated to William Collins, a leader in the Temperance Movement, with a plaque in front of it condemning the "Demon Drink"!! As well there is the Glasgow 2014 monument, marking the hosting of the 2014 Commonwealth Games, and the McLennan Arch, saved from the demolition of the Assembly Rooms in 1890 and eventually moved to the Green in 1991.

 We then moved on to walk beside the River Clyde, with its beautiful bridges, one of which is a pedestrian suspension bridge. From there on to St. Andrews Cathedral, then down Buchanan Street, a lively pedestrian walkway with a wide variety of architectural styles in the buildings on either side, a result of merchants of the past trying to outdo each other. One building of note was a former subway stop which is now a Cafe Nero (as prolific here as are Starbucks at home). Our tour ended in front of the Gallery of Modern Art, a most impressive building which houses a fairly eclectic collection of modern art. In front of the gallery stands a statue of the Duke of Wellington, atop which are two traffic cones, one on the horse's head and one on the Duke's. What started out ostensibly as a drunken student prank in 1980, has morphed into an iconic symbol,of Glasgow. City Council has made numerous attempts to thwart this act of civil disobedience, but whenever one cone is removed, another immediately takes its place. They even went so far as to propose that they double the height of the plinth upon which the statue stands to deter the pranksters. This met with rousing disapproval from the Glaswegian public, who believed that the practice was not an act of vandalism, but rather of a representation of local culture. There was even a "Keep the Cone" Facebook page and a rally with over 100 000 fans worldwide signing a petition in support of the cone. Eventually the Council succumbed to public pressure and the cone remains. But not only remains, but serves to celebrate various events, such as the green cone festooned with shamrocks for St. Paddy's Day, or the rainbow one for Pride Week. There is even a local phrase coined from the cone - "keep it coney", meaning to always try and have a wee bit of a giggle and bring some sunshine into the lives of those around you.

 After all that walking we were in need of some sustenance, so decided we would do a taste comparison test. Does the fare in Timmie's Glasgow measure up to that of Canada? Indeed it does! Even my fav French Vanilla coffee stood the test!

 We decided to head back toward the Cathedral and check that out a little more thoroughly, as well as the Provenance Lordship house and the Necropolis. The Lordship house is small, but very interesting, in that the rooms are set up to look much as they would have in their time. The house was originally built for the chaplain of the nearby St. Nicholas Hospital. There are many pieces of furniture dating back to the early 1600s, as well as other authentic artifacts and artwork. There is one room set up with Cuthbert Simspon, a chaplain who lived in the house at the beginning of the 16th century.  Behind the house is St. Nicholas' Physic garden, which contains herbs and other medicinal plants each plot dedicated to the plants that served to cure one particular ailment. There is also the Knot garden, planted to represent a Celtic knot. Above the garden plots, the Tontine Faces or Heads stare down as you stroll through this peaceful oasis.

 Next stop was the Necropolis, a 37 acre cemetery adjacent to the cathedral grounds with grand views over the city of Glasgow. It is reached over the Bridge of Sighs, reminiscent of that in Venice. The Necropolis was constructed to accommodate the growing number of the population in Glasgow. It was a result of a change in the law whereby burial for profit was allowed, as opposed to being the sole responsibility of the church, whose attendees were declining in number. It was officially opened in 1833, and is said to hold some 50 000 people, but experts say it could be as many as 100 000. In the cemetery are many monuments to the famous and not-so-famous. In the centre is a very tall monument to John Knox, founder of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland.

 On then to explore the cathedral a little more in-depth. I had gone in briefly on our tour, but we hadn't been down into the crypts. Luckily we got in before it closed and were able to explore quite extensively. It is a stunning church, both inside and out, with a fairly ornate exterior and an interior with wonderful stained glass windows, elaborately carved woodwork and many interesting artefacts. One of these, in the crypts is the tomb of St. Mungo himself, as well as a Bible that is over 400 years old. I could have spent at least another hour in there, but the docent kindly shepherded us out the door.

 Back to the flat for a little sit down time before heading out to dinner. This time we tried Amore, a two minute walk down the street, and recommended by my tour guide from the other day. It was a hopping place, with very good food!

Day Twenty-four: Outlander and Whisky

This was the day I'd been waiting for ever since we arrived in Scotland - my Outlander tour!! Irv was supposed to have gone on his Glengoyne tour, but as I found out when I got home, he had to cancel because his inner workings were not working as they should and he didn't want to chance an hour long bus ride out to the distillery. So basically he stuck pretty close to home base and just did a bit of wandering around the area.

 But for me, this was a magical day! We started out our tour with the very entertaining Alastair explaining that, due to changes in the Historic Scotland schedule (shades of our experience in NL with Parks Canada), one of the places we were to visit (Falkland) was not available, and another was having a planned power outage. Being an ever resourceful Scot, he already had a Plan B!

 Our first stop was Doune Castle, which in Outlander is Castle Leoch, home to the Mackenzie clan, where Claire is taken and basically held prisoner there by Colum and Dougall. It is also the ruins which Claire and Frank visit after the war. It was originally built in the 13th century and is a most impressive structure. The rooms are intact but there is not much in the way of furnishings or artefacts. In the series, you see the courtyard, the great hall and the kitchen. But the kitchen you see is only a replica of the one in the castle, as the real one would have been too complicated to film in. One bonus is that in the audio guide, they have special sections related to Outlander that are narrated by Jamie! Not a bad thing to have his voice in your ear while you imagine the scenes that took place here. As well as Outlander, Doune has served as a film location for Monty Python and the Holy Grail, as well as Game of Thrones, so it is a popular tourist destination!

 Our next destination was one that is not normally on the tour, but because of the aforementioned deletions, Alastair decided to take us. This was Callendar House, a stately home near Falkirk, whose owner was part of the Jacobite Rebellion. In Outlander its kitchen serves as the site for the gruesome demise of the Duke of Sandringham at the hands of Murtagh who, upon finding out that the Duke had a hand in the attack on Claire and Mary Hawkins, beheads him. The kitchen itself is a most pleasant and innocuous place, with all manner of cooking spaces and utensils, not looking at all like the spot for a bloody murder!

 Our third stop was at Linlithgow, which stands in for Wentworth Prison, where the Redcoats take Jamie and where Black Jack Randall tortures and rapes him. There is not much remaining of the interior of the castle, built and developed over the 15th and 16th centuries by successive Stuart kings, and burned out in 1746. Both James V and his daughter, Mary Queen of Scots were born at Linlithgow. We had a good hour and a half here, so I was in my glory, shooting ever imaginable thing that piqued my interest. The views from the top were spectacular! So much so that I had to make a very quick trip into the town and grab a cinnamon bun and a teacake to eat on the bus for my lunch!!

 Next on the agenda was Blackness Castle, on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, which in Outlander was Fort William, where Jamie is taken and flogged unmercifully by Captain Jack Randall. You actually stand in the courtyard where the flogging scene took place! It is an interesting structure, because it resembles a ship, with its prow pointing out into the Firth of Forth. It is nicknamed "The Ship That Never Sailed", and served as both a garrison fortress and a prison. You can walk all along the castle walls for outstanding views of the surrounding area. This is also where MQOS would have been taken had Henry VIII's plans to kidnap her and bring her back to England not been foiled.

 Our last stop of the day was at Culross (pronounced Coo-riss), which stood in for many different venues in the series. It serves as Cranesmuir, with its Mercat Cross acting as the town square, where Geillis Duncan is sentenced to burn for being a witch. It is also where Jamie rescues young Tammas, when his ear is pinned to a post for thievery. Geillis' house is also on the square. With its narrow cobblestone streets it is easy to imagine life here in the 18th century! Also in Culross is Culross Palace, where many scenes from several different episodes in seasons 1, 2 and 4 were filmed. The herb garden served as the same one behind Castle Leoch, where Claire meets Geillis for the first time. The palace withdrawing room was used as Geillis Duncan's parlour. In season 4 the palace rooms played the part of Laoghaire's home. Unfortunately we did not have enough time to go into the Palace, but did see the building and the herb garden behind it.

 Back on the bus after a long day, but worth every minute! Our guide/driver, Alastair provided not only an interesting and informative commentary on Scottish history, but was also a wealth of facts on the locations' connections to Outlander, despite describing himself as "not a rabid fan"!! A thoroughly enjoyable day, to say the least.

 Unfortunately, getting home and finding out that poor Irv had not had the great whisky-tasting day he was supposed to have had put a bit of a damper on my day. On the plus side, he had been out and about enough to find a good place to have dinner - a whole complex called Merchant Square with an extensive selection of eateries in one place. It is also the location of a Sunday craft fair, so I think I will be over there this weekend!!

Day Twenty-three: A Travelling Day

Today started off with a quick early trip over the to Scottish Poetry Library. I had decided yesterday that I wanted to pick up a copy of the book "Gifted" which is an account of the Book Sculptures of Edinburgh. Unfortunately the library is closed on Mondays, so I hoofed it over in the morning for its opening at 10:00. Made it back to the flat just in time to vacate as our hostess was coming in to clean!

An uneventful trek down to the train station to catch our train to Glasgow. (I love how easy and efficient train travel is in Europe!) The trip is only about an hour through the Scottish countryside. Arrived at Queen Street station and made our way over to the flat with no problems - it was only about a fifteen minute walk. Got settled in, then went back to Bar 91, where we had picked up the keys, to grab a bite. After that, we decided to take a bit of a wander around the area. First thing we found was a huge mural on the side of a building right near us that takes up a city block. It is only one of many murals around the city that I am hoping to find. This one is called Fellow Glasgow Residents Mural by a local artist named Smug. It is a collection of all types of animals found in Glasgow's parks and green spaces.

We wanted to find the Buchanan Bus Station where Irv would catch the bus out to Glengoyne tomorrow. Passed by George Square on our way, so checked out all the statues - Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, various political figures and statesmen, and in the middle a very tall column with Sir Walter Scott at the top. Impressive, but not anywhere near the monument they have in Edinburgh!! Found the bus station easily, then took a stroll down around the shopping district, and then in search of a grocery store to buy some breakfast foods. Struck out on that, but did come across a Timmies! We were pretty gob-smacked to find one of those in the middle of a Scottish city. Didn't stop to grab a double-double, but we certainly will have to try it out before we go to see if their coffee is as good as home!

Found a Sainsbury that was not too far from our place, so grabbed a few brekkie items and headed back to the flat. For whatever reason, we were both pretty bagged, so opted to just eat in for the night. So I headed back out and found a nearby Tesco and grabbed some pasta and panninis. Gourmet dining at its finest!

Day Twenty-two - Our Own City Tour

Today I put together our own little city tour, starting with a walk up to Calton Hill. This is a wonderful viewpoint from which to see the city from a 360 degree perspective. It is hard to miss, with its Athenian columns poking up over the skyline. The National Monument was meant to be a replica of the Parthenon, as a memorial to those who had died in the Napoleonic wars. Building began in 1822, but they ran out of money, so only the façade was built. At that time it was known as “Edinburgh’s Folly”, but now it attracts thousands of visitors each year. Also at the top are two observatories, the Old Observatory House, designed by James Craig, the architect responsible for New Town Edinburgh, as well as the City Observatory, built in 1818. There is also a monument to Horatio Nelson, to commemorate his victory at Trafalgar, and his death in that same battle. There is a ball which drops down the tower at precisely one o’clock, the same time that the gun is fired from Edinburgh Castle, to allow mariners to ser their chronometers. Calton Hill is a much loved spot for Edinburgh residents, hosting events for the Edinburgh Festival, as well as Hogmanay and Samhuinn events. While up there, I ran into a man from Comox, BC, who was taking pictures of his niece’s little stuffed bear, since she couldn’t come on the holiday!

Onward and downward to continue our explorations, after a quick stop at Rabbie’s Cafe. We headed over to George Street, with all of its high end shops. A stop at St. Andrews Square, with its imposing column in the centre, a monument to Viscount Melville. Along the way, we noticed several buildings where windows had been boarded or bricked over. This stems from a law passed in 1696 by William III, who introduced a property tax requiring anyone with more than six windows to pay a levy. So people bricked up their windows to save the tax, resulting in no daylight reaching those rooms. Hence, the phrase “daylight robbery”!

Continuing on, we found the former home of Robert Louis Stevenson, from whose windows he would watch the lamplighter, Leerie, lighting the lamps on the street. There is a plaque on the outside with the last verse of his poem “The Lamplighter” on it. Further on, we found the former home of Alexander Graham Bell, who, though born in Edinburgh, made his way to Canada, and is buried on Cape Breton. We continued our search for local landmarks, finding The “Oxford” Bar, made famous by author Ian Rankin, whose Inspector Rebus was known to frequent the establishment. It is rumoured that the author also tended to show up there on more than one occasion.

We stopped in a little side street for a bite to eat, before heading on our merry way back to Princes Street, where we strolled along beside Princes Gardens. This area used to be a lake, called the Nor’ Loch, and back then was the repository of all of the raw sewage thrown into the streets, accompanied by the warning “Gardy loo!” Rumour has it that the gardeners who tend this area do not have to use any fertilizer!!

We headed on up toward the Royal Mile, making our way up through Advocate’s Close, one of the many alleyways leading from down below to up above. The buildings that formed these closes were very tall and very close together, hence the name. Many were named after the trades and professions of their inhabitants. We were head to Mary King’s Close for a tour. But first, a stop at St. Giles Cathedral, founded in 1124 and in the 16th century, the focal point of the Scottish Reformation. It is regarded as the Mother Church of Presbyterianism. The exterior is very ornate, with carving over almost its entire outer walls. Inside, there is an abundance of beautiful stained glass, a stunning organ, and a lovely little part called the Thistle Chapel. One thing I found interesting is that, if you want to take photos, you have to buy a two pound photo pass - a sticker for your shirt that says you have permission to photograph the church. I thought that was a brilliant idea!!

A quick trip “home” to drop off the purchases we had made throughout the day, then back to the Royal Mile for our Real Mary King’s Close tour. This tour is most interesting in that you are taken by a costumed character of the time underground into the buildings that would have been on the close. Our tour leader was none other than the daughter of Mary King herself, a prominent businesswoman of the time. In the 17th century, the closes would have been open to the sky, though not much daylight reached the street below the eight or ten storey buildings. Mary King’s Close housed numerous tenement buildings, regarded by some as the world’s first skyscrapers. This was a warren of underground rooms that housed people from many social strata. It is said that Mary Queen of Scots even lodged here for one night. Because of the unsanitary conditions and the proliferation of diseased flea bearing rats, the bubonic plague ran rampant through the closes. Dr. George Rae, the official plague doctor, attired himself in a thick floor length leather cloak, to prevent fleas from reaching his skin. As well he wore a bird beak-like mask stuffed with sweet smelling herbs to ward off the stench snd germs. He would lance the buboes, or boils with a hot poker, and drain the pus, giving the victim a 50/50 chance of survival. Victims would hang a white rag out of their window to indicate that they had been afflicted and were in need of food and coal so they did not have to leave their homes and thus infect others. As the years went on the closes became very overcrowded and much dilapidated. It was then proposed that a building called the Royal Exchange be built over top of the closes and construction begsn in 1753. The other end of Mary King’s Close was demolished so that Cockburn Street could be built.

The tour is very interesting and visits a number of rooms and homes that would have existed back in those days. There is ine room of interest that contains a shrine of dolls and stuffed toys, paying homage to Annie, a young girl said tomhave been left behind during the plague and whose ghost appeared to a visiting psychic, who connected with the young girl and found out she was upset at having lost her favourite doll. The psychic then went back out to the Royal Mile, purchased a Barbie from the nearest stall and took it back to the room, and immediately felt the oppressive sadness lift from the room. Since then, people bring dolls for Annie, and there is quite the collection, from Rastafarian bananas to Sponge Bob Squarepants!

Back out into the light and a walk back to the apartment for a bit of a relax before heading out for our last dinner in Edinburgh. We opted to return to the Itslian restsurant half a block away, because we had enjoyed our meal the other night, and the skies were looking rather threatening!

Day Twenty-one - Irv's Dream Come True

Our last tour in Edinborough found us heading north out of the city toward the Kingdom of Fife, the small fishing villages and St. Andrews, home to the oldest golf course. But first, a stop to take in the three bridges that cross the Firth of Forth. The first bridge was built in 1890 and before it was even constructed, underwent a reengineering because of the collapse of a similar bridge over the Firth of Tay the year previous. During a violent storm the structure fell into the waters below as a train was passing over, killing all aboard. The second bridge is the Forth Road Bridge, opened in 1964 and at the time was the 4th (how apropos) longest bridge in the world and the longest outside the US. The newest is the Queensferry Crossing, opened in 2017, and the longest three tower cable stay bridge in the world, at 2.7 km.

Onwards and northwards through the Kingdom of Fife, a distinct entity whose existence can be traced back to the Pictish kingdom of Fib after the departure of the Normans. We stopped for a wee break at the small fishing village of Anstruther. Then on to St. Andrews, where the game was first played some 600 years ago. There happened to be a tournament going on, the Dunhill Links Championship, so we decided to jump off our wallets and pay the 15 pounds to watch some of the play. It just so happened that we were in time to catch Rory McIlroy and his group coming up to play the 18th, 1st and 2nd holes. That was quite the thrill, especially because on the second teebox, we could have reached out and touched him!! The golfers were paired up and Rory was playing with his father! Only thing was that it was bloody cold, what with the wind blowing in off the ocean right beside the course!! Could have used my down jacket that I had left at the apartment!!

Since we spent most of our allotted three hours at the course, we only had time for a quick lunch and then I jogged down to catch a glimpse of the ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral. It looked to be a very quaint town, with lots of interesting old buildings! Oh, and the beach beside the golf course was the one from Chariots of Fire!

Back on the road to the town of Falkland, another lovely picturesque place. In the Outlander series, it doubled as Inverness of the 1940s, where Claire and Frank stayed on their trip after the war. One of the buildings is the one where they stayed before she went through the stones. It is also home to Falkland Palace, a favourite place of the Stuarts, and particularly of Mary Queen of Scots. She loved to pursue falconry and hunting, and also enjoyed playing tennis on what is now the oldest surviving tennis court in the world. And - scandalous at the time - she played in men’s breeches!! The castle was built on the site of a 12th century hunting lodge, in the 13th century. In the 1500 James IV and V transformed the castle into a beautiful royal palace. The interior of the palace is most impressive, having being in great disrepair after 1660, but renovated in the 19th century by the third Marquess of Bute. There are also lovely gardens surrounding the castle.

Back on the bus, Edinburgh bound through the lush fields and verdant forests of this beautiful part of Scotland.

A good dinner at Bilbos, near the apartment, with a good conversation with a couple from Melbourne, whose son’s partner was from Calgary. We had a good chat with them about Australia, Canada, Scotland and Dublin, where they were headed next.

Day Twenty - A Magical Day, in Many Ways

Today was our Rabbie’s tour of Alnwick Castle, the Scottish Borders and Northumberland, with our amazingly informative tour guide/driver, Dave. We headed out of Edinburgh south-east toward the border with England, bound first for the small town of Kelso, home to the ruins of a 12th century Romanesque abbey, from the time of King David I. It was once one of the wealthiest and grandest in Scotland. Its proximity to the English border made it vulnerable to English attacks during the Wars of Independence, and by 1545 was severly damaged, leaving the ruins that remain today. There also happened to be a market going on in Kelso, which is always fun! Our only purchase was a couple of very yummy brownies from one of the stalls, for a mid-morning snack!

Back on the bus headed for Alnwick Castle, but first having to cross the River Tweed into England. It’s no big deal, given that it is all part of the UK. Nothing more than a rather unimpressive sign that says ‘England’ at the end of the bridge. Dave gave us the opportunity to walk across it ourselves!

On to Alnwick Castle, constructed in 1096, and belonging to the Duke of Northumberland to this day, the current owner, Ralph Percy being the 12th Duke. It is the second largest inhabited castle in England, after Windsor Castle. Its claim to fame is that it was the location for filming the first two of the Harry Potter movies, serving as Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, as well as standing in for the fictional Brancaster Castle in the Downton Abbey Christmas Special. Even though it is still an actual residence for the Duke and his family, they vacate it during the tourist season, and allow visitors to traipse through their many rooms and gape at the splendor and opulence of life for the upper crust. As you walk through, you are reminded that it is indeed someone’s home, with typical family photos on the walls and on tabletops. There is artwork dating back centuries, and so many ornate and unique artifacts, it is almost impossible to take it all in. One highlight was being in the dining room with the table that, expanded to its fullest, can seat fifty. This is where the dinner scene from the DA episode was filmed. There is a very interesting film that talks about the logistics (and trepidations) of having a film crew and cast invade this stately abode. I’msure it putthe curators of the estate in a right tizzy!! Unfortunately there was no photography allowed, so I will just have to hold the mental images.

Being a site from Harry Potter, there are references, as well as activities related to those movies. One activity for the kids is the opportunity to learn how to fly a broom, right on the same grounds where Harry took his first flying lesson. We did not avail ourselves of the chance to show our latent Quidditch skills!

Another attraction of Alnwick are the extensive gardens, with the central Cascading Fountain, Rose Garden, Poison Garden, Bamboo Labyrinth, Fountain Garden, Exotic Garden to name but a few. We managed to get to most of the gardens and were most impressed. While we were there, there was a wedding reception going on and the array of fascinators was, well…..fascinating!

Back on the bus, for a drive along the Northumberland Coast with views of the North Sea. We were bound for Bamburgh, a small village best known for Bamburgh Castle, originally the site of a Celtic Brittonic fort in the 5th century. It was destroyed by the Vikings in 993 and the Normans later built a new castle on the site, which were the foundations of the present castle. Over the years, the castle deteriorated, but was restored by vaious owners during the 17 and 18th centuries. It was finally purchased by William Armstrong, a wealthy industrialist and philanthropist, and whose family still owns the castle today. It covers some 9 acres of land and sits high on the cliffs above the sea, overlooking the town of Bamburgh.

Bamburgh was also home to Grace Darling, a local girl who is famous for, along with her father, having rescued passengers from a paddlesteamer that ran aground on the Farne Islands off the Northumberland coast. She and her father rowed for a mile out in the tempestuous sea to rescue those who ahd survived the wreck and were clinging to rocks. She and her father were both awarded medals for their bravery. Unfortunately she died only four years later at the age of 26, and her funeral was a major event attended by hundreds.

On the road again, bound for Edinburgh. After a long day of travelling and touring we were ready for a good dinner, so stopped at the Inn on the Mile and decided to have our first meal of haggis. Mine was just the regular neeps and tatties and haggis in a whisky sauce, while Irv went for the more exotic chicken stuffed with haggis. The haggis was very nicely spiced and quite delicious.

Day Nineteen - Book Sculptures and Beer

In one of the guide books I took out from the library while researching our trip, I read about the Edinburgh Book Sculptures and was most intrigued by the story. Apparently, in 2011, small sculptures began appearing around Edinburgh, in places associated with literature and the arts. The first one was found in the Scottish Poetry Library, with others appearing in other locations, from March through to November, 2011. The sculptures are constructed from old books, and were accompanied by labels praising literacy and the love of words and were a quiet protest against the cutting of funds to the arts. They were toured throughout Scotland in 2012. Even though the artist claimed that there were only ten, an eleventh was delivered to the Edinburgh Bookshop, addressed to Ian Rankin, some of whose books were used for the other sculptures. As part of Book Week Scotland in 2012, the sculptor who was, and remains, anonymous, was commissioned to create five more sculptures to be hidden around Scotland. Since then, more sculptures have appeared, including one that consisted of a sculpture 6’6” high of a tree with butterflies as leaves, the butterflies having been sent in by members of the public. It is supported by a “lost child"“ and was left with a fictional story about the Butterfly Tree and how it comforted the lost child. To this day, the sculptor remains anonymous. It was a story that totally intrigued me and was a fun way to explore more of this amazing city!

In the course of looking for these sculpture, I went into many buildings that I would not normally have gone into: The Scottish Poetry Library, the National Library, the Central Library and the Edinburgh Film Institute. Another one was the National Museum which is in itself a treasure. They have an exceptional collection of just about any subject you could name. We spent a fair bit of time in the Kingdom Of Scotland section and browsed through a few others, but you really would need to spend several days to do the museum any justice. Perhaps if we have time, we will head back there.

After all that hunting, we were getting a little peckish, so decided to grab a bite before heading over to Innis and Gunn, the people who brew some of Irv’s favourite beers. He had contacted them through one of the agents from the wine store, so we were expected. Unfortunately it was pouring rain as we wound our way through the cobblestone streets of the old town, but we found it with no mishap. Our host was Fergus, who sat us down and offered us our choice of their 24 beers. Irv enjoyed the Inverslmond Ossian Smooth Golden Ale, but I did not. Much too bitter for my taste. He also tried the Innis and Gunn Mexican Saison, which is brewed with jalapeños and other spicy peppers and one small sip just about blew my tongue off! He also tried their Basqueland Milagrito Mexican Stout, which was not at all spicy and much better tasting. I stuck with water!! Unfortunately this is just a restaurant/pub, so there was no brewery tour attached. All of their beer is brewed in a facility in Glasgow.

On our way back to the apartment, we passed by George Heriot’s School, which has been in existence for 350 years, presently operating as an independent co-ed school for students between 3 and 18. It is a very impressive building, but unfortunately the guard at the entrance wasn’t letting me get any closer than the entrance gate!! Not sure what the fees are to attend, but our tour guide on our city tour told us that one of the other private schools charges 18 000 pounds yearly to attend!! That's $31 000 Canadian!!

Because the wraps we had for lunch were so huge, we had saved half each (always carry a ziploc in your bag) and decided to stop for a bottle of wine, some salad fixings and a dessert on the way home and just have a meal in for the night.

Day Eighteen - The Kelpies, Loch Lomond and Stirling Castle

We were up early to get down to Rabbie’s Cafe in time for our tour of The Kelpies, Loch Lomond and Stirling Castle. While we were standing waiting for the bus, I struck up a conversation with a couple who were carrying Alzheimer Walk mini backpacks, and asked them where they had done their walk, the same one Dad and I had done in Edmonton. Turned out they were from Transcona, in Winnipeg, where I grew up. The woman even went to the same junior high I did, and lived about 5 minutes away from where I did!

On the road to first see the Kelpies. These are huge, 30 metre high metal sculptures of two Kelpies, which are shape-shifting water spirits who will whisk you down to the depths and steal your soul if you are not wary. They were erected as a monument to horse-powered heritage and the importance of the industry to Scotland’s past and present. I have wanted to see these ever since first seeing them on a photography website I follow. I had goosebumps upon my first glimpse of them! They truly are magnificent!

Back on the bus, heading for the famous Loch Lomond. We stopped at the village of Balmaha, a popular stop for those walking the West Highland Way. Some of the group chose to go further up the road on the bus and walk back along the shore, but we opted to stay in town and do a smaller walk out of the village along the shoreline, more because of the threatening black clouds that were looming in the distance than not wanting the exercise!

Next, bound for Stirling Castle, but first, a little musical interlude! There is something magical about travelling along listening to ‘On The Bonny, Bonny Banks of Loch Lomond’ while you really are on theose bonny banks!! We also had a rousing rendition of The Proclaimers’ “Five Hundred Miles” with the whole bus joining in on the chorus! When we arrived at the castle, we were fortunate to be in time for a tour, which is always a bonus, because you get so much more out of the visit with a guide. We also lucked out, weatherwise, because it was raining quite steadily when we arrived, and then about ten minutes later, it stopped and the sun came out and we had great weather for our whole visit!!

Stirling Castle dates back to the early 12th century, with most of the present buildings having been built between 1490 and 1600, mostly by the Kings James - IV, V, and VI. It is located at the crossing of the River Forth, making it a key location for access to the north of Scotland. During the Wars of Independence it changed hands many times between English and Scottish control. It is famous as being the site where the forces of Andrew Moray and William Wallace (of Braveheart fame) defeated the English in the first War of Scottish Independence.

One very fascinating display was on how they recreated the seven tapestries that hang in the palace. These are a series of huge tapestries called “The Hunt of the Unicorn” which date back to the Middle Ages. The originals hang in The Cloisters, part of the Metropolitan Museum in New York, having been purchased and donated by John D. Rockefeller. Their provenance is not conclusively known, though many theories as to their origin exist. The process of recreating these works of art took some thirteen years to complete and the display on the painstaking process through which this was achieved is quite fascinating.

Also on display is a recreation of the kitchens of the castle, complete with life-size mannequins and all of the food which might have been prepared for the consumption of the royals and their entourage. We very much enjoyed our visit to this castle, probably as much as we did to Edinburgh Castle.

One of the things that made our tour so enjoyable was the ongoing commentary of our guide, Graeme. He was a wealth of information about the stories, the history and interesting little tidbits, all mixed in with a good sense of humour. I only wished I could remember all of the things he told us!

On the way home we walked down the Royal Mile a bit, poking our heads into some of the “closes” along the way. These are essentially narrow alleyways that connect the adjoining streets with the Royal Mile and are most intriguing. We are going on a tour of Mary Kings Close on Monday.

Dinner was at the ltalian restaurant down the road from the apartment. One funny thing, while we were eating, a woman came over and asked if she could take my picture, because she thought I looked exactly like a friend of hers at home. I said sure, and afterward she showed me a photo of her friend, Lorna, who did look a bit like me. But she said that was an old photo and that her hair was more like mine now! Funny things that happen when you are on holiday!!

Day Seventeen-A City Tour and a Castle

We decided to have a bit of a relaxed morning, so didn’t get moving until later. Our city tour started downtown and we weren’t sure how long it would take to get there, so left in good time. It only took us 15 minutes to walk down, since the apartment is so well situated. We were early, so wandered around Waterloo Place for a bit, just marvelling at the beautiful buildings surrounding us. The architecture in this city is overwhelming. I don’t think I had expected this level of grandeur and sophistication. It seemed every time I turned my head, there was another glorious edifice to gawk at in amazement. Took a peek in at the Old Calton Burial Ground, which houses the final resting spots of a number of Edinburgh luminaries, including philosopher David Hume, scientist John Playfair and clergyman Dr. Robert Candish. Opened in 1718, it is also the site of Scotland’s American Civil War Memorial, with a statue of good old Abe Lincoln on top.

We waited at the stop for our tour and started getting a little worried, as no one else was showing up. Well, turns out we had our own private tour with just us two and our jovial driver, Derrick, of whose conversation we managed about 70%, due to his heavy accent (at least to us, whose ears have not become attuned to the Scottish speech.)

The tour was quite extensive, covering a good chunk of the city and hitting pretty much all of the major points. It was a canned audio that worked on GPS, so kicked in at the various points of interest. We covered everything from Edinburgh Castle, to the Walter Scott monument, to several notable churches, to a very posh private school, to the Scottish Parliament. You name it, we saw it!!

A quick lunch in the Waverly Station Mall gave us enough energy to tackle the trek over to Edinburgh Castle. It was a bit of a grunt, but not too bad. To say the castle is impressive would be a gross understatement. We lucked into a tour right off the hop, so gained a little more insight than if we had just gone through on our own. There has been a royal castle on the site since the 12th century, and continued to be a royal residence until 1633. In the 17th century, it became a military barracks. From the early 19th century, its importance as a part of Scottish heritage was recognized and restoration work was begun and continues to this day. The castle played a role in many historical conflicts, including the Wars of Scottish Independence and The Jacobite Rebellion. One highlight is the Scottish War Memorial, which commemmorates soldiers who died in both World Wars as well as more recent conflicts. It was opened in 1927 and has a special place for each different regiment, along with books inscribed with the names of those from the regiment who died. It is a beautiful building, but, out of respect for the dead, you are not allowed to take photos. Another highlight was seeing the Honours of Scotland, better known as the Scottish Crown Jewels, the oldest surviving Crown Jewels in Europe. At one point, following the Act of Union in 1707, the crown, sword and sceptre were hidden away in David’s Tower and lay there until in 1818, Sir Walter Scott instigated their unearthing. Also on display is the Stone of Scone, or Stone of Destiny, which is a block of sandstone on which Scottish kings placed their feet at coronation. It was stolen from Scone Abbey in 1296 by King Edward I of England and remained in England for seven centuries, a symbol of England’s subjugation of Scotland. In 1996 it was returned to Scotland and rests in Edinburgh Castle, only to be removed and sent to England for the coronation of the next King or Queen, who, by tradition, sit on a chair under which the stone has been placed.

After we’d had our fill of the castle, we decided to head for “home”, but once there Irv decided to have a lie down so I headed back out in search of Greyfriar’s Bobby. Found him quite easily - a much smaller monument than I expected! But also found Greyfriars Kirkyard, which has a beautiful old church along with many old gravestones. There was even one with a “mortsafe"‘, which was an iron cage placed over the graves to prevent grave robbers from digging up the bodies and selling them to the anatomy classes at the medical school.

Got home and rousted Irv out and dragged him over to the Southsider, a little oub not far from our apartment. Had a great deal - ‘pie and a pint’ for 5.99. Can’t beat that with a stick !

Day Sixteen - A Travel Day

Not a very exciting day today, as we were flying out from Dublin to Edinburgh. Had brek at the hostel and shared a table with two young girls from Washington and California who were moving to Ireland for a year of work and travel. Apparently it is very easy to get a one year Visa if you are a recent graduate. They plan on just working and travelling their way around Ireland. One of them was a track athlete, her sport being the hammer throw!

Had a bit of time before we had to catch our Air Link bus to the airport, so took a last minute wander around the area. In retrospect, I wish we had planned a couple more days in Dublin, as there were certainly things that we didn’t get to see. All the more reason to come back, I guess!

The trip to the airport was without drama, checking in and security not as bad as we had been told it could be. The flight was a good one, no turbulence to speak of, despite the weather. It was cloudy and damp when we grabbed the Airlink into Central Edinburgh, but not raining, so we decided to hoof it over to the apartment. With only one wrong turn we made it there, though most of it was uphill, not fun when you are dragging suitcases. It just started to drizzle as we got close to the apartment, so fortunately we weren’t too wet.

The apartment is a lovely little flat with a bedroom, bathroom, fully equipped kitchen, and sitting room. It will do quite nicely for our week here. We had a little down time, then decided to head out for grocs. The Lidl is quite close, so we stocked up there on breakfast foods and took them back to the flat. Since it was pouring rain at that point we opted to find a nearby restaurant and duck in there. Turned out to be the Wild Yarrow, which was Greek/Turkish, so we had the skewers, chicken for me and lamb for Irv, followed by a sticky toffee pudding for dessert! And I think I have found my new go-to cider - Thistly Cross!

Day Fifteen -End of the Tour

Our last day of the tour saw us taking leave of Cork, heading to Dublin. A dismal, rainy day, but that didn't seem to dampen the spirits of our crew. A stop on the way at the Rock of Cashel, also known as St. Patrick's Rock and Cashel of the Kings. Legend has it that the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil's Bit, a mountain north of Cashel, when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the rock landing in Cashel. It is reputed to be the site where St. Patrick converted the King of Muenster. It dates back to the 12th century and consists of several differnt buildings: the Tower, Cormac's Chapel, and the Cathedral. As with pretty much all of the castles we have seen this trip, it is pretty impressive, not only in its size and grandeur, but in contemplating the skill and artistry it took to build it some 900 years ago!

Finally arrived in Dublin and said our farewells to most of our travelling companions: Ralph and Sue, Norm and Corey from Calgary, Erica and Roddie from Chilliwack, Al and Rose from Windsor, Rich and Jan from Michigan, Sara from England, and Christy from St. Louis. They were a great bunch to travel with; I can't believe how well we all gelled and got along. We had lots of laughs along the way and shared some great experiences! Of course we also said our goodbyes to Mike, our tour guide and Paul, our driver, who both did an outstanding job to make this tour a memorable one. We did not part company with our new friends, Bill and Mary from Upper Saanich, as we had opted to grab lunch with them. Fortunately the hotel we had stayed at in Dublin allowed us to stow our bags for a few hours, so we didn't have to lug them all around. Then Mary and I realized we were only a short walk away from two photography exhibitions that we both wanted to see, so we trotted over to Meeting House Square to catch an exhibit by Mandy O'Neill consisting of photos she has taken over a decade in classrooms, hallways and playgrounds of primary and post-primary schools in Dublin. I found it quite intriguing and so did Mary. Not so much for the boys, I don't think. Then we dragged them over to an exhibit at the National Library of Ireland of a photographer and sculptor named Helen Hooker O'Malley. Again, very interesting for two of us, not so much for the other two!!

At that point we parted ways and Irv and I headed over to our accommodation for the night - Abbey Court. It is actually a hostel, but also has Air B&B type self-contained units, which is what we had. A little chill time before heading out to find a place for dinner over in the Temple Bar area. We found a great place called the Merchants Arch, which had a musician playing folk songs. Another good dinner, topped off with dessert - Banoffee Pie. Sara had been raving about this throughout the trip and introduced her roommate Christy to it, so we figured we couldn't leave Ireland without trying it. It could be very addictive!!

Back to the apartment for a little reorganization of the suitcases so we can be ready to head to the airport in the morning.

Day Fourteen - A Train Trip to Cobh

Today found us on the train to Cobh (pronounced Cove), a small town on the coast. It is only a half hour ride from Cork, but makes for a lovely day trip to the seaside. Cobh, for me, was very reminiscent of St. John's, with the houses closely packed together in rows and some brightly painted, others more muted, but coloured as well. It is developed along the waterfront, with streets that go up from there, much like St. John's. You certainly get a workout exploring this place!
Cobh, which was formerly known as Queenstown, has a connection to two maritime disasters - the Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh was the last port of call for the Titanic before she set sail across the Atlantic to her doom. There is a memorial to the victims of that fatal voyage, over 100 of whom boarded the ship here, since Cobh was a popular port for people who were emigrating to America. As well, there is a section dedicated to the story in the Cobh Heritage Centre.

The second disaster connected to the town was the sinking of the Lusitania by German torpedoes in 1915. The Lusitania was a passenger ship, still operating as such despite the war going on. It left New York, bound for Liverpool with 1959 people on board. About 16 km off the Head of Kinsale, she was struck by a torpedo from a German submarine, and sank in just 91 m of water. Rescue boats from the nearby coastal towns managed to save some 761 people, but the remainder of the 1198 passengers were never recovered. The survivors were ferried to Queenstown (Cobh) and lodged in local homes. Three days after the sinking, 150 victims were buried in mass graves in Cobh, 80 of them never being identified. There is a very moving sculpture dedicated to all of the lost souls.

Despite the bleak historical connections, Cobh is a lovely town to walk through. One of the most striking features is St. Colman's Cathedral, a most impressive church for such a small place. It is a good example of neo-Gothic architecture, started in 1868 and taking some 47 years to finish. It has a carillon of 42 bells, which we were fortunate enough to hear, being there at 12:00. Unfortunately that coincided with a Mass, so we could not go inside.

Another claim to fame for Cobh is that it is the birthplace of Sonia O'Sullivan, a former track athlete. Sonia won gold at the 1995 Olympics in the 5000m and a silver in the Sydney Olympics. Her 2000m world record, set in 1994, stood until 2017. There is a lifesized statue of her on the waterfront walk,

Siince it was getting near lunchtime, we stopped for a bite at the O'Shea Bar, before heading over to the Cobh Heritage Centre. This is a fairly extensive exhibition of the history of Cobh and its connection to the Titanic and Lusitania. Your entry ticket has the name of an historical character whom you can look for in the exhibition. Mine was Margaret Rice, a mother of 5 sons who was taking the Titanic back to the U.S. Her husband had died and she had gone back to visit relatives and was on her way back to Seattle, where they had settled. Irv's character was Fr. Frank Browne, an Irish Jesuit priest who was also a prolific photographer. A present from his uncle was a place on the first leg of the Titanic's journey from Southampton to Queenstown. He documented life on board this magnificent vessel, but upon orders from the head priest, was told to disembark at Queenstown, an order that ultimately saved his life.

At that point, we had to head back to the train station to catch our ride back to Cork. While waiting for the train, I struck up a conversation with a young woman who was herding a group of young Scouts, along with two other leaders. They had spent the day in Cobh doing a scavenger hunt of all the main sights in Cobh. They were a lively, but well-behaved little bunch. We had a good chat about Scouts and Cubs and Beavers in Ireland. Not a whole lot different than in Canada. Back on the train, Cork bound. Irv headed back to the B&B while I opted to head back to the town centre for another stroll around. Other than purchasing a belt and some new mascara, and some socks for the kids, nothing particularly exciting. Back to the Gabriel to get cleaned up and ready for dinner. Since it was our last night together, Mike had reserved a spot at Market Lane. We all had a great dinner and a fine time visiting. Since the night was still young, some of us (Mike, Sara, Christy, Bill, Mary and us) decided to stop off at Shelbourne's, the whiskey bar where Irv and I had stopped the day before. Then back home to the Gabriel for our last night of the tour's sleep.

Day Thirteen - Killarney to Cork

Back on the road again, this time bound for Mike's home town of Cork. But first, the obligatory stop at Blarney Castle. The castle was built almost 600 years ago by Cormac MacCarthy, one of Ireland's great chieftains. The castle itself is a very impressive and formidable structure, but it is not the only attraction there. The surrounding gardens are beautifully laid out and well worth a visit. Of course if you are patient and not claustrophobic, you can wait in line and climb to the top of the castle to press your lips upon the Blarney Stone, or as it is more formally known, the Stone of Eloquence. At one time, visitors who wanted to kiss the stone were lowered head first over the battlements. Now with lawsuits in mind, one leans back, holding an iron railing and plants a wet one on the stone which is set in the wall. None of our group chose to waste our already short time here to wait the 45 minutes in line to get to the top. Myself, being a bit of a claustrophobe, chose not to spend that much time in an enclosed space with all the other wet and steamy tourists.

Instead, we chose to explore at least a part of the grounds, starting with the Poison Garden. As one might expect, this garden contains all manner of plants that one reads about in historical fiction novels and murder mysteries. Some of these are so pisonous that they are contained within metal cages, to prevent the curious from sampling them. Wolfsbane, mandrake, ricin, opium, cannabis, birthwort, wormwood, to name but a few.

From there we made our way over to the Rock Close, a garden landscaped around different natural features in the eighteenth century. There are many natural formations, such as the Druids Altar, the Dolmen, the Wishing Steps, the Witch's Face, the Fairy Garden along with several man-made sculptures strategically placed throughout. It is a magical place that would have been delightful to explore more, had we had the time.

Off to meet the group back at the Blarney Woolen Mill, where one can drool over the many fine woollen offerings, or grab a bite to eat at the cafe there.

Back on the bus bound for our B&B for the next two nights, Gabriel House. But first, a little tour of the central part of Cork, since our rooms would not be ready! Once settled in, we were out again headed for the English market, down in the CBD. I was expecting something similar to St. George's Market in Belfast, but it was basically just a food market, no artists or artisans. We stopped for a quick coffee and snack, then wandered around a bit. We found a small craft fair with some local artisans offering their wares, but didn't come across anything that was calling our name. Fortuitously, we stopped so I could find out how to get to St. Patrick's church, and it was right outside an optician store, so I was able to get the nose piece on my glasses replaced. It had broken several days previous and was not too comfortable poking into my nose. The kind young lady fixed it and charged me nothing!

On to check out St. Patrick's, which is a lovely church, but nothing out of the ordinary, as churches go, and believe me, we've seen our fair share here!

All that walking around had built up a thirst, so we decided to stop at a local pub, Shelbournes, that purportedly has some 360 different whiskeys to try. Irv was gobsmacked when the bartender brought out the clipboard with pages and pages of whiskeys to choose from. He opted for a Pearse, while I, not being a whiskey drinker, chose to quench my thirst with an Orchard Thieves cider (fast becoming my go-to drink here!)

While at the pub, I got to chatting with an older gentleman sitting beside me at the bar. We were watching the hurling match that was going on on the screen, so I asked him to explain what was happening. He was a lovely man and patiently explained the finer points of the game. It is a VERY exciting, fast-paced game with very little down time.

After our visit to the whiskey pub, we headed over to Gallaghers and met up with Mary and Bob, Rose and Al and Christy and Sara. Another great meal - tried the Irish Meat pie and it was delish!!

Unfortunately the light drizzle that had been happening when we entered the restaurant turned into a full on downpour for our walk (or more accurately, slosh) back to the Gabriel B &B. By the time we got back, we were all thoroughly soaked through and through! Spent time with the hairdryer, trying to get our shoes a head start on drying out so we could wear them the next day!!

Day Twelve - Ring of Kerry Day

We were on the road by 8:45 so that we could complete our tour of the Ring of Kerry in decent time. This is a stunningly beautiful drive around the Iveragh Peninsula, with lush green fields, brooding mountains and rugged coastline, combined with many different historical buildings and lovely little seaside villages. We made several stops along the way, including the Kerry Cliffs, where it was so windy, you could barely make it up to the top!! But the views up there made the walk most worth it!

Our first stop was at a sheep farm, where we were introduced to the different breeds of sheep that are raised in Ireland, both for their wool and for their lamb. Following that we had a demonstration of sheepherding by the farmer and his two amazing collies. They respond both to voice commands and whistles, and it was fascinating to watch how quickly they each responded to their own series of whistles to guide the sheep wherever he wanted them to go.

Second stop was at Cahergill, the remains of a dry stone constructed ring fort, one of many that dot the countryside in these parts. These are apparently hard to date, but it is believed that this one was probably occupied some 1000 years ago. It was somewhat unique because it not only had the circular walls standing, but also a smaller circular building in the centre, where someone of importance possibly lived.

Our next stop was, as I said, at the Kerry Cliffs. There is a steep walking path up to the top, but it was so windy, the climb was challenging, and once at the top, we were very glad there was a fence, because it would have been very easy to have been blown right off the top! The views were spectacular, including a hazy far-off view of Skellig Michael which is a twin pinnacled crag off the coast, made famous as the planet Ahch-To where Luke Skywalker disappears in the Star Wars movie, and is home to the first Jedi temple.There are also the ruins of an old monastery on the island.

Another place we visited for a short time was the town of Waterville, mostly known for being the place where Charlie Chaplin had a home and spent a fair bit of time. There is a statue of him on their main street.

At ? House we made a stop so people could explore the Fairy path, which led to a garden with all manner of exotic plants, or walk down to the beach to see across to the ruins of an old monastery. We opted for the latter, but weren't sure where to go but after a little wander through the woods, we found the beach. The house itself is quite grand.

Back on the road, Killarney bound, arriving in time for a quick cleanup before heading over to Bricin Boxty House for a taste of some traditional Irish food. A boxty is a potato pancake made with potatoes, flour, baking soda, buttermilk, and sometimes eggs. They are served with a filling, somewhat like a crepe. We had both the lamb and the chicken and both were delicious.

On the way back to the hotel, we passed by a church where there was a free concert. Mary and I opted to stay, while the rest toddled off "home". We were so glad we stopped, as it turned out to be a very talented little group of Irish/Ugandan musicians - three in all! The man who played the guitar and bohdran was amazing, at one point making his guitar sound like a harp. The young woman on the flute was equally impressive. A most lovely way to end our time in Killarney!

Day Eleven - Galway to Killarney

A lovely drive through the Irish countryside from Galway to Killarney, with a stop in the picturesque little town of Adare. We didn't have much time for more than a quick walk through the Trinitarian Abbey, also known as the White Abbey because the monks who founded it in 1272 wore white garments. An interesting part of the abbey was the pigeon cote in the back, where those birds were raised, much as we raise chickens, to supply the monks with food. A quick breeze down the colourful main street, and we were back on the bus.

Once we got to Killarney, we quickly checked in to our cosy B&B, The Countess, then headed out to grab some food for our picnic lunch on our bike ride. Over to the bike rental place to be outfitted, then off we pedalled bound for Muckross House. This is a stately home on 13 000 acres on Muckross Lake, built in 1843 for the Hubert family. The house itself has been preserved as an example of late 19th century mansion, with furniture and artefacts from that period. In 1899 the estate was sold to a member of the Guinness family. It has outstandingly beautiful grounds as well as a lovely garden behind the house. While there eating our picnic lunch, I noticed two young men playing over on the grounds. Turned out they were practising their hurling skills. Hurling is an Irish game played a little like lacrosse, but with a stick more like a field hockey stick, called a hurley, and a ball, called the sliotar. These young men tried to explain the finer points, but I think I will have to Youtube it and watch a match. They were most keen to explain the game to me and demonstrate the skills required. I was kicking myself afterwards that I didn't ask them to let me have a go.

Back on the bikes, this time headed over to Muckross Abbey, which are the ruins of a Franciscan friary founded in the 15th century. The walls of the cloister and its associated buildings are in their original and complete state, including the tree that grows right in the middle of one of the rooms.

Back on the bikes - unfortunately Irv got a crappy one that the gears kept slipping on, so he along with two others of the group opted to turn theirs in and head back to the hotel. We continued on through Killarney National Park to Ross Castle, sitting on the side of Killarney's lower lake. It was built in the 15the century. Legend has it that O'Donoghue Mór the original builder, still sleeps under the loch and on the first morning in May, rises from the lake on his horse. If you catch a glimpse of him, you will have good luck for the rest of your life.

It was just delightful to cycle through the park and be among the greenery and trees. A little more nerve-wracking on the streets, but the motorists are very patient and courteous toward cyclists. Our biggest challenge was on the way back, when we had to ride along a narrow pathway that we shared with the jaunting cars (horse drawn carriages). As we were heading back, we noticed a couple of herds of the native red deer in a field.

Back to the bike shop to return our steeds, then off to the B&B to clean up before heading out to grab a quick bite. We ended up at Tatler Jack's and had a good meal, before heading back in time for Paul to drive some of us over to the Celtic Steps show at the racetrack.

This was an evening of Irish music and dancing, which was most entertaining. The musicians were fabulous and the dancers - wow! Can they move their feet!!! At one point they set up a table in the middle of the audience, at arm's length from where I was sitting, and one of the young men danced on top. He was amazingly quick on his feet! It was a fun evening much enjoyed by all of us who went.